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Nikon D70/D70s User’s Guide
meter, or make it smaller to be more like a spot. This setting doesn't have any effect on the spot
meter. The spot meter is independent of the center weighted meter.
12: BKT Set: This controls what's changed when the camera brackets. You can change it to alter the
white balance, or the exposure, or just the flash or ambient light exposure. I don't use bracketing, so
I don't use this.
13: BKT Order: This controls the order of the shots made with bracketing. "Normal" first uses the
metered exposure and then the altered versions. You may select instead for it to make the
underexposed shots first. I don't use this.
14: Command Dial: You may choose to swap which dial does what when setting manual exposure. I
leave it in default OFF/NO.
15: AE-L/AF-L: This sets what the AE-L AF-L button locks when held, and how. I leave mine in AE
lock only, since in AF-S the AF locks when I press the shutter half way. I use this lock in strong
backlight. I point the camera down at something as dark as my subject, press and hold the AE-L
button, point the camera at the subject, press and hold the shutter to lock focus, move the camera
again to compose, then release the shutter. This gyration of three camera positions saves me from
having to use manual exposure and manual focus. The AE-L button locks exposure and the shutter
locks the focus. Slick!
TRICK: Hidden in a screen below the first five options under CSM 15 is a sixth very special option:
Flash Exposure lock. This is critical for people and pet shots. Nikon keeps this even more secret by
calling it "FV Lock." Scroll down past the bottom of the other five options to see it. Select FV Lock and
the AE-L AF-L button becomes the Flash Exposure Lock button. Select this and when you press the
AE-L AF-L button the flash goes off to measure and preset the exposure. Now every shot fires the
flash at the previously measured level without any preflashes. This 1.) eliminates any shutter release
delay and 2.) eliminates any potential for subjects eyes blinking.
16: AE Lock: more of the same. I leave this OFF. If you turn it on it locks the exposure when you
hold the shutter halfway. This would mimic cheaper point-and-shoot cameras, but is silly since 1.) the
camera has a dedicated AE-L button and 2.) one usually wants to lock exposure and focus on different
things. If your subject is conducive to locking everything at the same place you probably don't need
locks at all.
17: Focus Area Wrap: I leave this off. If I keep pressing the AF selector in one direction the
selected AF area goes to the end and stops. To go from far right to far left I have to go left and pass
the center. If you turn this to ON (wrap) you can cheat and get to the left sensor by clicking one more
time to the right from the far right sensor! This is too confusing for me, so I leave it OFF (no wrap).
18: AF Area Illumination: This lights up the AF areas in the finder. I leave it at AUTO, in which it
turns it on in the dark. OFF never turns it on, which is silly, and ON leaves them on even in bright
light, which is stupid.
19: Flash Mode: I leave it in TTL, which lets the built in flash expose properly and automatically.
Manual sets the power manually. Commander mode lets you control an SB-600 or SB-800 by magic. I
have a page on using the Wireless Flash Modes. If you forget to set it back to TTL the flash goes off,
but has no effect on the exposure! Be sure to check this before thinking your camera is defective if
your flash doesn't come out in your picture..
20: Flash Sign: Leave this ON. Turning it off extinguishes the bolt in the viewfinder if you need flash.
This is more than an idiot light: the matrix meter analyzes the subject's lighting ratio and turns on the
bolt when the ratio exceeds the camera's (or aesthetics') dynamic range. This is why you'll see the
flash bolt come on even in direct sunlight if you have deep shadows.
© Ken Rockwell 13 of 13