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mode. The background exposes correctly, people may be blurred, and a burst of flash freezes
them along with the blurry ghost images.
Normal and SLOW do the same thing in S and M exposure modes (page 11), since you or the
camera may select any shutter speed in these modes regardless of flash sync. I usually prefer to
choose an exact slowest shutter speed in the M or S exposure modes (page 11). In SLOW mode
and dark conditions the shutter speeds can become too long for comfort.
Red-Eye SLOW (eye and SLOW icon): This is the SLOW mode and redeye. I don't use it for the
same reason I don't use Redeye.
REAR (REAR and Bolt icon): Normally the flash goes off the instant the shutter opens. With long
exposures and blurred ghost images you ordinarily get the ghost streaming out in front of the
subject. Think about it: if a car is driving, the flash goers off and freezes it, then the car moves
forward. You'll have a ghost image ahead of the car, which usually looks stupid. Select REAR
mode to have the flash go off as the shutter closes. Now you'll have motion blurring behind the
frozen flash image.
Another reason to select REAR is because the flash goes off at the end of the exposure. People
presume photos are made the instant a flash fires, then leave. This wreaks havoc with long
exposures. If you use REAR mode with long exposures they'll stay put and not move until the end.
Of course you'll also want to select manual flash mode (page 32) to eliminate the preflash.
REAR doesn't do anything with short exposures.
Fn - Backwards Clock Button
By default, press this to set the self timer.
Custom Setting 11 (page 31) lets me set this to do other things instead. I prefer to have it give me
more direct access to White Balance. See Custom Setting 11 (page 31) for details.
Big Button Below "D40"
This unlocks the lens. Push this straight in and rotate the lens to remove it. It's a bayonet mount.
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