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TECHNIQUES-confinued
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Synchro-sunlight fill-in flash photography
is
possible with
the S8-16's shooting mode selector set
to
the TTL-auto-
matic, non-TTL automatic, or manual mode.
Operation
in
the manual mode assures you of good
re-
sults
in
virtually
all
cases,
so
we will describe this proce-
dure first.
In
the
manual
mode
1)
Set the shutter speed
on
the camera manually. Set
the camera manua
ll
y to the highest synchronization
speed for electronic flash or a slower one.
2)
Take a meter reading of the background. Frame the
background
in
the camera's viewfinder, so that the back-
lit subject
is
not included.
Turn
on
the camera's exposure
meter to determine the proper f/stop for the shutter speed
you have set.
3)
Determine the flash-to-subject distance. Using the
equation below, calculate the flash-to-subject distance
us
i
ng
the guide number for the
fi
lm
in
use
(as
shown
on
page
31)
and the f/stop set on the l
ens:
..
guide number
flash-to-subJect distance f
Istop
4)
Position the
58
·
16
at the correct distance.
Set
the
flash-to-subject distance
on
the lens distance scale; then
move
in
and out until the subject appears sharp
in
the
camera's viewfinder.
To
vary the composition,
you
can
use a wideangle-to-telephoto zoom lens. As
an
alternate
50
method, remove the fl
ash
unit from the camera using a
separate sync cord and position
it
at the correct distance;
then you can shoot from any position.
5)Take the picture.
Set
the S8
-16
for manual operation,
turn it
on
and wait until it
is
fully recycled before taking
the shot.
This procedure balances the exposure for the subject
with that of the background. However,
in
synchro-sunlight
fill-in flash photography,
it
is
a good idea
to
use the light
from the flash unit
as
a secondary light
by
decreasing the
flash illumination
by
approx. one or two stops
to
eliminate
harsh shadows caused
by
the ambient daylight. There
are two ways of decreasing flash illumination.
One
is
to
use
an
aperture that's one or two flstops smaller than
that determined
in
step
2)
in
combination with a shutter
speed that should
be
slower
by
one or two steps
to
give
the background a correct exposure; the other
is
to use
a flash-to-subject distance
1.4
or two times longer than
that determined through the equation.
You
will obtain
more natural-looking results with either method.
You
can
al
so
combine the two methods. Some photographers
prefer
to
overexpose the background
by
one stop
in
order
to
create
an
intentionally backlit effect
by
using a shutter
speed that's slower
by
a further one step.